Garw, Ogmore and Llynfi Valley
Sometimes erroneous referred to as the Bridgend valleys, these three beautiful valleys converge just north of Bridgend with the Llynfi and Garw rivers being tributaries of the Ogwr, which empties into the sea between Ogmore-by-Sea and Merthyr Mawr sand dunes.
The most populous of the three is the broad Llynfi Valley with the historical market town of Maesteg at its heart where the Welsh National Anthem, Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau, was first performed in public at the Tabor Methodist Chapel on St David’s Day, 1856 under its original title of 'Glan Rhondda'.
The town is dominated by its impressive Town Hall, a grade II-listed Pennant sandstone building opened in 1881, whose prominent clock tower is visible from afar, and where it is reputed a young Richard Burton first trod the boards during a local Eisteddfod in 1939. Today, the building houses a number of works by renowned Welsh artist Christopher Williams, who was born locally, and is an arts and entertainment venue used by many local music and drama societies for their productions.
Maesteg is a bustling shopping centre with a daily indoor and outdoor market and a regular rail connection. Recently, many of the buildings in the town centre have undergone restoration under a Townscape Heritage Initiative including some in Commercial Street, which is unusually wide owing to a tramway that existed in the early 19th century.
The origins of present day Maesteg and its neighbouring communities further up the Llynfi Valley, such as Nantyffyllon and Caerau, date from the 1820s when the area’s coal and iron-ore resources were exploited and developed. In 1828, the 15-mile horse-drawn Dyffryn Llynfi and Porthcawl Railway (DLPR) was completed to link the area to a new harbour at Porthcawl on the coast. One of the former ironworks has been carefully transformed into a superb modern Sports Centre close to Llynfi Road rugby ground.
Just to the south of Maesteg, the historic hilltop village of Llangynwyd with its church and two old pubs set amidst pretty countryside certainly merits a visit. One of the oldest pubs in Wales, the thatched Old House (Yr Hen Dy) dates back to 1147 and is one of the few remaining places where you can still witness the famous 'Mari Lwyd' every New Year's Day, an ancient custom to mark the passing of the darkest days of midwinter.
In the early 18th century, the Corner House pub was home to local bard Wil Hopkin who wrote the much-loved song 'Bugeilio'r Gwenith Gwyn' at the Old House, which tells of his love for Anne Thomas, the Maid of Cefn Ydfa, a young heiress forced into marriage with a rich man. Broken-hearted, Anne died two years later and Wil never married. Both he and Anne are buried at Llangynwyd church, Anne in the family grave in the chancel, and Wil in the churchyard under the shade of a yew tree. The original gravestones have been replaced and taken to the bell tower of the church.
The Afon Llynfi joins with the Ogwr Fawr close to Tondu and Aberkenfig. This area is an absolutely fascinating mix of industrial heritage and nature at places such as Bedford Park, once the scene of intense industrial activity as evidenced by the old Cefn Cribwr Ironworks, but nowadays a haven of peace and tranquillity with hidden glades harbouring a rich variety of flora and fauna. The Tondu Ironworks site is perhaps the best preserved Victorian ironworks in Wales while close by the site of the former Parc Slip colliery is now a nature park with meadows, wetlands and woodlands hosting a wealth of wildlife. The Valleys Cycle Network passes through the park and there are outdoor activity areas for children and cycling.
Whilst there might be some contention whether Cwm Garw should be translated as the ‘rugged’ valley, there is no doubting its picturesque rugged beauty. As its name suggests, Blaengarw sits at the head of the valley surrounded by the towering Carn & Werfa mountains. Since the demise of the area’s collieries, regeneration has helped re-green the area, such as at Parc Calon Lan, named after a famous Welsh hymn, the words of which were written by Daniel James when he lived in the village.
Blaengarw Workmen’s Hall has been restored and is a focus of community life with its 260-seat auditorium, supported by the activities of the award-winning Creation Development Trust, which has also opened a cafe nearby which serves a variety of good wholesome food. Their innovative time banking scheme encourages local people to get involved in village life and rewards them for their time and efforts through a community currency!
Blaengarw is adjoined by Pontycymer, which featured as the location for the 2004 film, Very Annie Mary. It has a fantastic traditional menswear shop at Oxford House.
The valley winds beautifully down past Lluest and Pantygog to Llangeinor, where the 18th century philosopher and financial genius, Dr Richard Price was born at Tynton Farm. His writings influenced both the American ‘Declaration of Independence’ and Constitution.
At the entrance of the Garw valley is Bryngarw House surrounded by the 113-acre Bryngarw Country Park. Built in 1834, the house is now a major conference centre with 19 tastefully furnished bedrooms whilst the park has a varied programme of events throughout the summer, offering facilities for nature lovers, families. walkers and cyclists
The head of Cwm Ogwr (often referred to as Ogmore Vale) is dominated by the Bwlch mountain. The road leading up to the Bwlch brings you to a junction from which you get a wonderful panorama overlooking the Rhondda Fawr valley to the east, the Afan valley to the west, the Brecon Beacons to the north, and down past the Ogwr valley itself and over the channel to Somerset to the south.
Nestled below the Bwlch are the villages of Nantymoel, where the 1949 Ealing comedy "Run for your Life" was partly filmed as was the Oscar nominated Welsh film, "Solomon and Gaenor" and Ogmore Vale, which was the first village in Wales to have electric street lighting and whose Gwalia grocery stores have been rebuilt at the Museum of Welsh Life at St Fagans.
Once centres of industry, both villages now nestle in superb countryside with excellent walking in the hills around. Glynogwr on the way to Gilfach Goch. The Ogwr Fach valley offers a wonderful glimpse into how the valleys of South Wales looked before industrialisation.
